Day Eight –Skagway, Alaska – September 8, 2009

It was the fall of 1897 as news of gold discoveries in northwestern Canada's Yukon region spread worldwide, the glacier-shaded harbor of Skagway, Alaska, became so congested with boats carrying would-be prospectors that new arrivals had to anchor up to a mile offshore. Overloaded scows then shuttled men, women, children, and their provisions to the town's gravel beach. On the beach, owners protected their piles of belongings with scattershot curses or the rapid cocking of pistols.

As we walked off our ship, we didn’t hear any scattershot curses or rapid cocking of pistols. The port of Skagway is a popular stop for cruise ships, and the tourist trade is a big part of the business of Skagway. This town seemed as close to “old Alaskan” as you can get! Real rugged feel to it. You could almost hear the cowboys of days past. A very old town. And it felt old too.

Skagway (originally spelled Skaguay) is from the Tlingit name for the area, "Skagua" or "Shgagwèi" meaning “a windy place with white caps on the water”. During the early 1900s Skagway was known as the "Gateway to the Klondike."

Mmmmm, Klondike. I love those Klondike ice cream bars!

We pull into Skagway at 7:00am and when I looked out the window and saw this:

I knew it was going to be packed! We got off the ship around 8:00am. The excursion we chose for this port was the White Pass/Yukon Route train ride and our scheduled time was 4:15pm. It’s probably THE excursion here and very popular. So we had all day to explore Skagway.

We walked to downtown from the ship, which was about a 15 minute walk. Was pretty foggy and no rain this morning. Something tells me the weather is going to cooperate for us this entire trip! Hopefully.



The first thing we see as we come into town is this huge thing.


It’s a snow plow built in 1899 and was used during blizzards up on the mountain clearing rock hard snow drifts between Skagway and Whitehorse. Pushed towards the snow drifts by 2 steam engines. It was restored in the winter of 1995 and back into service the winter of 1996. Pretty impressive thing.

We wandered around town for about 2 hours and just explored.





This apparently, is the most photographed building in Skagway. It’s the Camp Skagway No. 1 and the most famous building in Skagway. This driftwood-decorated frame building was the home of a fraternal group of the Arctic Brotherhood founded by gold seekers on their way to the Klondike. This building of "Camp Skagway No. 1" was erected in 1899.

And more of this old town.


We walked in to this old, restored, bar called Clancy’s bar where one of the towns famous con artist used to frequent, Soapy Smith. Turns out Clancy’s Bar was owned by Soapy Smith’s partner in crime. Was rather interesting being in a place that once used to be the place to hang out back in the day.

We walked around some more before he decided to take a trip over to the Gold Rush Cemetery.





On our way to the Cemetery, which is almost a 2 mile walk, we see this old steam engine. Too bad they were unable to restore this thing. Sitting in the Railroad Museum in town would have been perfect! Such a waste!


As I was getting ready to take some close detailed shots of this old engine, I hear the blow of the White Pass train. I yell at Ray “It’s coming” like some little 3 year-old I know and started running towards the track. And you know what? I beat it there!


After seeing several people hanging out in between the cars, I looked forward to our trip later in the day. Because THAT’s exactly where I’m gonna stand the entire trip!

As we get closer to the cemetery, I finally see my first wild Eagle!

It landed up on a hill, and, of all days, I did not bring my zoom lens with me. Oh, I cursed myself up and down the entire time he was sitting there. Yes, I got shots of him, but you can’t see him in the picture unless you know where he is! So I won’t bother you with one of those shots. I’d hate to have you strain your eyes trying to find it.

So, we’re finally at the cemetery. Majority of the people buried here are from the gold rush era. And it was nice to see that most of the headstones have been kept up. Some replaced or repainted so you can read them. Others too old to make out what was written on them.



The more we walked around, the more we notice many died very young. Mainly in the 20s and 30s. The closely spaced dates on many of the markers attest to the epidemics that swept through mobs of stampeders living in squalid conditions. There was little sanitation for the tens of thousands who passed away in 1898.



Also buried is Jefferson Randolph Smith II, also known as Soapy Smith. An American con artist and gangster who had a major hand in the organized criminal operations in Skagway. He is perhaps the most famous confidence man of the old west.

And the person who allegedly shot him, Frank Ried.

The place was quite peaceful and quite overgrown.

We started back to town to get a bite to eat and came upon that darn eagle again. Still sitting on the same branch. Still cursing myself up and down. Still took more pictures of that little speck on the side of the hill. So I won’t bother you with one of those shots. I’d hate to have you strain your eyes trying to find it.

Finally back in town, we decide to eat at the Red Onion Saloon.

Funny it’s called “Saloon” when in fact it was Skagway’s most exclusive bordello. Built in 1897 with planks cut by Captain William Moore, the founder of Skagway, the Red Onion Saloon opened for business in 1898. Quite an interesting story about this place.



We each had a burger and a good Alaskan Ale beer.

We headed back to the ship to grab the rest of my equipment, including the zoom lens I should have had when I saw that darn eagle. Of course, I’ll probably not see another one.

We’re on the train. The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is the "Scenic Railway of the World." Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, a designation shared with the Panama Canal, the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty. It climbs almost 3000 feet in just 20 miles and features steep grades of up to 3.9%, cliff-hanging turns of 16 degrees, two tunnels and numerous bridges and trestles. The ride is approximately a 3 hour round-trip.

We ride along the Taiya River most of the way.




As we were climbing, off to the side of the track and down in a gully we see an old steam engine lying on it’s side. Remnants of an avalanche years ago, knocking it off the track.

And of course, as we pass that steam engine, I start to think of the massive earthquakes Alaska can have. Here we are, on the side of a cliff, hoping one doesn’t hit at this very moment. It won’t be as soft as an avalanche. I can assure you of that!

The views were pretty spectacular. I’m sure we could’ve seen more if it wasn’t so cloudy. As long as it wasn’t raining, I was fine!









We head into our first tunnel. It’s pretty neat being between the cars as we head into the tunnels. You can really feel the cool air.


A short ways away, we came upon an old bridge called The Steel Cantilever Bridge. This bridge was the tallest of its kind in the world when it was constructed in 1901. I have no idea how it could hold up a heavy steam engine and cars looking like a bunch of tooth picks glued together!





And the new and improved, shorter, sturdier bridge.


We come up to a sign saying “Trail of ‘98”, which is the actual trail of the gold rush era. I can’t imagine walking or riding on this trail for miles on end!

This was a very scenic ride. Towards the top, we could see some glaciers on the Mountains. Was amazing when zoomed in to see how much has actually retreated! Sadly, in 10 years, this might not be around.


The rest of the ride was just sitting back and enjoying the ride.









We finally make it to the summit.

The train stops, the engines are unhooked, moved to the back of the train, and the trip starts over, back to Skagway.







The colors of the river were fabulous. It’s all glacier melt and the ‘dust’ in the glacier water gives it shades of gray to teal. Just beautiful.

More of our trip back to town.






We arrive in Skagway, head to the ship. Many people in Skagway plan to pack up their belongings and head south. One local said the town litterally becomes a ghost town. Only one store open and 2 placed to eat. Otherwise, if you're walking down the street in the dead of winter, you may be the only one.

We’re on our way at 8:30pm to Icy Straight Point.

I really enjoyed Icy Straight Point.

We did the longest zip ride in the world! 1 mile long and a 90 second ride!

Woo Hoo!

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